Tempting kebabs, scented biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has consistently been a haven for gastronomes, with locals and visitors equally swearing by its remarkable cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization designated it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – including it in a prestigious roster of international urban centers and sparking hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this status, it joins a global network of cities urban centers across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "artistic expression as a key factor of sustainable urban development".
The accolade "demonstrates its centuries-old food heritage and vibrant food ecosystem," as stated by a official from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to earn a spot in this highly sought-after list of seventy urban centers worldwide.
A City Defined by Food
The recognition for this historic city arrives as no surprise to its inhabitants or dedicated food lovers. Many echo the opinion that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO recognition, this cherished, chaotic, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is now in the global gaze for what has perennially defined its soul: an immense love for food.
"'What will be cooked, how should it be prepared' is a constant conversation from morning until night in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are truly evaluated by the quality of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th Century affluent Muslim rulers – is noted for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were created, refined, and elevated to exquisite levels in their royal kitchens.
These royal kitchens were centers of culinary innovations, fusing Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were created. The story goes that the galouti kebab was devised to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists minced the meat with papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, slow heat, with the pot's lid tightly closed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Besides the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just highlights seasonal produce but also provides the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Nearly on many street corners, there are tiny kiosks and kiosks – lesser-known gems that are immensely favored by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, large gatherings start milling around from 5 am at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in clay glasses, along with pillowy soft buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can visit a unpretentious joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also presents remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert available in the winter. The process of making it is intricate and demanding. The vendor hand-churns the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing light consistency.
On crisp mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many but note that their younger generation are reluctant to learn the craft.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's rich food legacy places it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – crafted by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is anticipated, will encourage more people around the world to discover these tales and experience the city to savour the culinary delights of Lucknow.
