The Holiday Tree Lights Up Once Again Since the Outbreak of the Conflict
For two years during the Gaza war, every festive public event marking the holiday season were cancelled within the city of Bethlehem located in the West Bank. This place is where Christians believe the birth of Jesus occurred.
However, following a recent truce, this sacred city decided that now celebrations would make a comeback, as symbolised by the illumination of its traditional, giant Christmas tree before the historic Nativity Church.
"It's been two difficult years of silence; no Christmas, no jobs, no work," remarks Bethlehem Mayor Maher Canawati. "We're all living here on tourism and the tourist trade had fallen to nothing."
He acknowledges that the decision of resuming celebrations was not without debate, given the ongoing hardship within Gaza – including for those in its small Christian population, who often have family ties in Bethlehem.
"Certain voices argue it's not appropriate while others contend it's appropriate," the mayor notes. "But deep inside my heart, I believed that this was the right thing to take because the Christmas season should never be halted or abandoned. This is the light of hope for our community."
A Glimmer of Celebration Reappears
Locals – from both Christian and Muslim faiths – take photographs before the tree decorated with gold and red ornaments at Manger Square. They are joined by a small number of international visitors.
Brightly coloured lights now adorn the streets and there are signs advertising Christmas bazaars and festive events for children.
"We're very happy to have the tree, first of all, and to welcome visitors to Bethlehem and to have the chance to observe the holiday in its true spirit," says Bethlehem designer Nadya Hazboun.
"This is where everything began, so this is where we can convey the message to the world of what Christmas truly represents. And this year, if the season is calm, then I hope it will deliver a positive message for the entire world."
Economic Hopes and Challenges
The neighbouring towns including Beit Jala and Beit Sahour are also planning to illuminate holiday trees in the coming days. Hotels – which have stood largely empty for the past two years – have an influx in reservations from Palestinian citizens of Israel along with certain international tourists.
A visitor from Russia, named Angelica, is on her second pilgrimage to the Holy Land. "In my view everyone needs to come at least once during their lifetime," she states.
"I wish many visitors will soon come back because it's sad with few tourists. The sole aspect that's good is you don't have lengthy queues – you can come and see more things. On my prior visit you had to wait in line for a few hours at least."
Currently, the gift shops scattered throughout Bethlehem experience scant trade, and outside the cream-coloured walls of the Nativity Church, which date back to the Fourth Century, guides are mostly unoccupied. Before the Gaza war, it was typically packed with people.
"This is a city for tourists; without tourism there is no life," expresses one guide Hamza. "We hope to see individuals coming back as in the past: from Europe, the Middle Eastern region, America, Latin American and all over. We begin with lighting the tree, and then we will wait."
The Persistent Economic Toll
In the past two years, unemployment has skyrocketed in Bethlehem. Since the deadly Hamas-led attacks on southern Israel in October 2023 that sparked the conflict, many thousands of Palestinian workers from the West Bank have been prevented from entering Israel and its settlements for work.
Meanwhile, government employees have received just a portion of their wages by the Palestinian Authority (PA) – which governs parts of the West Bank. The PA relies on tax income gathered by Israel, which it is currently holding – to the tune of 1.76 billion dollars, according to the UN's trade and development agency.
Israeli officials state they are retaining these funds because the Authority provides payments to Palestinian prisoners that encourage violence against Israelis. The PA – facing global pressure to enact reforms – claims it has lately modified its welfare system.
A Modest Holiday
The bleak economic situation means that for numerous Palestinian Christians, even though there are currently public events in addition to religious services, it will be a subdued holiday season.
On the periphery of the square, some patrons are waiting to buy hot balls of falafel from several shops.
"We are getting ready for the holiday following one of our hardest periods as Palestinians and as a Christian community," says Alaa Salameh, who runs Afteem, a decades-old family restaurant that has witnessed its income plummet. He says that recently numerous families could not even afford falafel – an inexpensive, traditional food.
"Christians will try to mark the occasion but based on their situation," Mr Salameh anticipates. "Someone who wants to take his kids to a festive event or a show or similar, they lack the funds to expend for this celebration."
Hopes for Peace and Prosperity
In the cave-like grotto at the base of the church, a local woman accompanies a small Indian tour group, bending down near a silver star which marks the spot where tradition states Jesus was born and igniting a candle nearby.
Amid ongoing high tensions throughout the area, Bethlehem residents say they are hoping for peace – and wishing for tourists to come back to the location where it is believed where Christmas started.